When I was growing up, my household always observed the 11th of November with some solemnity as Remembrance Day. My father remembers seeing and hearing the Blitz over London when he was a schoolboy at Winchester; some 25 years earlier, his father flew reconnaissance missions in the war that was to end wars. The question of how collective mourning for the First World War was done differently here in Germany is one I might explore in another post. But in Mainz, the 11th of November means just one thing: St. Martin's Day, and therewith the festive opening of the "fifth season" of Carnival. I didn't go to hear Carnival declared open at 11 past 11 in the morning, but I left the archives a little early, and went to the cathedral to see the Martinsspiel and procession.
Small, singing children! These lanterns are feathery on purpose, made to resemble the geese which, according to legend, alerted the populace to the presence of the bishop-elected when he attempted to flee this dignity.
Saint Martin in the apse of his cathedral, sharing his cloak. In the foreground is the Roman camp, made of papier maché and crepe paper:
Following a dramatic reading and pantomime of St. Martin's vita, collective prayer, and the priestly blessing of the lanterns, the entire assembly (including brass ensemble, naturally) headed out to process through the city, and process we did, singing:
The procession gathers...
Saint Martin in the apse of his cathedral, sharing his cloak. In the foreground is the Roman camp, made of papier maché and crepe paper:
Following a dramatic reading and pantomime of St. Martin's vita, collective prayer, and the priestly blessing of the lanterns, the entire assembly (including brass ensemble, naturally) headed out to process through the city, and process we did, singing:
To my surprise and delight, the Carnival-celebrating crowds at sidewalk cafes and spilling out of bars cheerfully joined in the songs. At the conclusion, we were joined by a Roman cavalryman--most impressive--and all the children got sugar-dusted pretzels, as is traditional. I was quite impressed by the German efficiency shown in combining legend, liturgy, communal singing, and baked goods. This bodes well for Advent, I feel.
I remember Martinitag (as it's known in Austria) but I hate the whole Fasching thing at exactly the time when (in the UK anyway) the serious moment of silence for Remembrance Day is held. But then I don't like Karenvale at all. I'll take a Krapfen though! :-)
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