Gazing downhill towards Mainz (faint in the distance; you can just make out the dome of the church which stands behind the archive.)
I rode in a straight line from the first Wegweiser to the second. Note that the arrows pointing to Erbenheim (which I had been told by the two women I first asked for directions that I should aim for) are pointing in opposite directions.
I was very excited to see this known Wetterfahne, looped around it, and pedaled vigorously off… until I reached the Wegweiser again.
Slightly different trees. I made one smallish loop after asking directions the second time, as a result of which the friendly day-hiker came panting up to me to offer further counsel: " 'As the crow flies after the tree' was probably confusing," he kindly suggested, "as there are trees everywhere."
I made it to the landmark cemetery without further misadventure, followed the received directions obediently, saw all the indicators I'd been told to look for… and ended up back at the cemetery. At this point, it had started to rain in earnest instead of just spitting, so I waited 5 minutes for the bus.
The theater. In hopes that some last minute costume sale might be happening, I asked two people which entrance I should try, the main one being locked. "I do not understand," said the woman, in English. "Ich bin nicht von hier," said the man. I then tried an open door, optimistically. "You've taken a wrong turn," said a workman I encountered. "My mistake," I said; "sorry." As I trailed out again, I heard him contemptuously remark to his companion that I'd probably just wanted to look at the building.
My poor bicycle and I ended up rather besmirched. So much so, in fact, that we drove out the family who got on the train after me. Hardly had they sat down when they rose. "Come," said the matriarch to the child she held by the hand, and she cast at me the pointed glance which is a specialty of German disapproval. "It stinks here." Well. Not being able to help that, I tried to look as generally apologetic as possible during the half-hour ride back to the village where I live. And then I cycled home, more determined than previously to hear the Winterreise recital being given in Frankfurt next week.
!!! What a crazy bitch from hell, that woman!
ReplyDelete(Great leg, though)
But what was I gonna say... Ah yes. What fun reading this, though it must have been hell experiencing it. You will find a costume, I am certain. There will be other sales, brocantes, charity shops eccetera eccetera.
Btw, are the locals always this miserable? Nobody you spoke with in this compte rendu shows any sign of human decency, so... I was wondering.
Except that hiker, okay okay. He was probably from another region. :p
ReplyDeleteThanks for the moral support, Lydia. :) I'm glad it made entertaining reading, as that's really the only excuse for an extended gripe in writing. Anyway! I've found that the "alte Meenzer," the Mainzers, deserve their reputation for being unusually open and pleasant. German reserve requires some adjustment on my part, but the encounters of this afternoon were with an unusually skeptical lot, which made for part of the unpleasantness/retrospective comedy.
ReplyDelete